30th September Yazd, Iran

I've hung around in Yazd because tomorrow I will meet up with a couple of Austrian guys, Martin and Richi travelling to India on KTM 690 Adventures. I spent the day giving the bike a bit of attention. Oil and filter change. The garage just a few metres from the hotel had a choice of 3 oils. I went with the proprietors recommendation of Shell Super Plus !!!. I then had the bike washed......

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I spent the afternoon doing a little cultural sightseeing. Yes really. I have surprised myself. Yazd is an ancient city. It is famous for it old city with wind towers which allegedly capture every ounce of wind and divert it downwards to cool underground dwellings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

29th September. Kashan, Iran to Yazd, Iran

So i managed to checkout of the Negarestan. The first 40 or so miles of my journey were on a motorway. I then moved onto highway. Great roads.  When you are travelling through desert you expect....

You don't expect 17C and rain. When I took the photo of the camels I was freezing. I had removed my jacket's thermal liner days ago and was wearing a short sleeve shirt. I approached the camels with caution, still wearing my crash helmet (you can't be carefull enough) I think the disguise meant that I was able to get quite close.

Very strange weather, at one point I changed into my "Decathlon Pac a Mac" I almost put on over boots. Seconds later the rain stopped and temperatures went up to 28C....things ended in a dust storm.  

After some 240 miles I reached Yazd. A group of Greengrocers helped me locate a hotel I had read about... Hotel Dad!?

Slumming it again, Dad is 4*. It has underground parking, spot my bike?

I appologise that I am unable to offer any thoughfull insights into Iranian life, culture, history etc!!!  

Yazd mileometer 21730

28th September, at rest in Kashan, Iran

Hotel Negarestan is like Hotel California.... can't seem to checkout....
Today I have done nothing but catch up on a bit of blogging. Issued an invoice, chilled.

I have learnt that if I fill up with petrol whilst my bike is on its side stand, I get an extra 1 1/2 litres in! I have started using Benzene Super, 8000 Rials a litre. I now know the correct exchange rate for the UK pound (43,000 Rials) ... so a litre of super is... less than 20p.

This is Iran's largest bank note. Half a million Rials.   (about 12 quid)

The most cultured thing I have done in Kashan is to play a game of snooker with Hamid on Negarestan's full size table. For the record, Hamid won. England 0 : Iran 1

My bill at Negarestan came to 792,000 Rial. 2 nights 4/5 star, 2 dinners, coffee, snooker, a few drinks (less than 40 quid)

If you try to login to your eBay account you discover:

Kashan at dusk:

Dave does technology. I am learning how to use my camera. A panorama!

27th September Zanjan, Iran to Kashan, Iran

Bad cop… Good cop

My bike was parked right outside my tourist bungalow…. Each morning it takes a few minutes to ferry stuff back and forward to my bike; this morning the process was quicker and easier.

I had an Iranian breakfast of dates, feta, bread, honey and tea. The auto-route was only a few minutes away. After 50 brisk miles a Police car with flashing lights stopped me. No motorcycles on the Motorway! I had already travelled 400 miles on Iranian motorways through multiple toll booths and past many police checkpoints. (English men on motorcycles pay no toll fee on Iranian motorways…. I always stopped ready to pay but was ushered onward) I had to leave the motorway. This was a troubling situation, given that my route planning was based on motorways and I don’t read Arabic. I needed petrol badly so got help from a local who escorted me to a petrol station.

CNG…… Compressed Natural Gas (Not LPG) many cars run on CNG and there are fuel stations that serve only CNG. Pulling up at a “Petrol station” to discover it is CNG can be a little heart breaking.

At fuel stations you need a ration card to fill up. I have no ration card. One way or another a ration card appears and I always get the fuel I need, at this station they charged a whopping 100000 Rial (£2.50) I knew I was being overcharged, I saw the shared smirks between the pump attendants, but hey £2.50 didn’t hurt too much ;-)

I travelled on minor roads for 50 miles a little resentfull of my exclusion from the motorway. My plan was to re-join a safe distance along the way, hopefully avoiding my tormentors. I duly re-joined and then headed closer to Tehran. Tehran is another mega city; it has a population of 15,000000. I was anxious about finding the ring road and circumnavigating the city without incident. The temperature was rising! 33C in dense slow moving traffic . Later in the day 33C would seem luke warm.

In the end I found the southern autoroute and was heading toward the Persian Gulf. My planned destination was Qom. An Iranian who spoke English suggested Kashan instead. I shall detail the conversation later.

Finally after more than 350 miles in temperatures upto 36C, I was in Kashan. I stopped next to some police and asked for a good hotel. They wrote something on a piece of paper. I moved on. After some time, I stopped and asked for help again. The guys were butchers and spoke no English. At this point the police drove by… stopped and reversed back to me. They then escorted me some 6-7 miles through Kashan, sometimes using their sirens, to Kashan Negarestan Hotel. This is 4-5 star hotel and costs £30 a night……. Good cops….. Good people.

I wasn’t shy about checking in. I am cocooned in real luxury and tonight I will eat in their restaurant. I am on the 8^th floor I have magnificent views over the old city across to huge mountains. Internet magic is on tap, including access to the 4^th dimension  via a hyperspace bypass.

Kashan mileometer 21482    (3725 miles covered since leaving Loughborough)

I had read in other people accounts of travels through Iran that Iranians are helpful, kind and hospitable.  This is very true. They have, almost without exception been very friendly and decent. Books, covers, judgement.

26th September Marand, Iran to Zanjan, Iran 

I followed a minor road for some time. The scenery in Iran was remarkable. Eventually the minor road entered a motorway. After some time the police stopped me.  Ali, a 21 year old police officer asked a me a few questions.  Iranians speak very little English, but more English than I speak Farsi. After a few questions that were more curiosity then protocol,  Ali offered me tea. He then collected me a cake. Scary Iranian police… NO! I asked to take a photo but the police said this was forbidden, they were cautious about their own circumstances.

Iranian police hospitality

After another hour, another police stop. Same curiosity, gifted 2 pears.

Iranian Motorway lunch

It turns out that the British and Iranians share a passion…. Tea. Iranians drink this all day long. I would judge that tea is more important to them than it is to the British!

I arrived In Zanjan early after covering a humble 230 miles. I was determined to make phone calls and use the internet. I found my way to the finest hotel in Zanjan… Zanjan Grand, yes very grand but sadly full, except for a very expensive suite. The staff directed me to another hotel…. Full.

I finally got a room at Zanjan Jahngardi (Tourist hotel) Better than the night before. The internet worked but didn’t. Google was inoperative! …… no Gmail, no blogger, no Google maps! Whats a traveller to do? I should have guessed but was later told that Iran was blocking Google for 3 days as a sanction against it listing of the American anti Islamic film.

I headed into town to try and find internet access and a sim card. I met a guy called Massoud…….. Massoud spoke little English but was very kind and friendly.

Massoud, 30, ran a Auto windscreen business. He knew everyone in his community and was hyperactive! He helped me in a many many ways. Through Massoud I met scores of people and spent 4 hours moving about Zanjan.

One of the guys I met was Hussein, Hussein told me that he was studying English and asked me to come along to the class that evening. Hussein, 30, spoke a few words of English and worked in a Car Parts business.  I agreed… reluctantly, I say reluctantly because I was tired. At 7.45pm Hussein arrived at the hotel in a brand new Mistsubishi 4x4. He was obviously wealthy… but it wasn’t until this point I understood this. We went to the English class. I taught English (after a fashion) to 2 groups of students for 2-3 hours. An amazing experience. Amongst the students were an Iranian fighter pilot and an MD Doctor with a PhD in PharmoKinetics. We chatted about many things and it was fascinating to speak to Iranians, men and women about life in Iran and in the UK. I was very fortunate to be involved in such a unique situation.

Hussein is a successful racing driver. Yes, really. My return trip to the hotel would have shaded Fernando Alonso’s driving. 

Sleep…… with guilt because Massoud and Hussein had both wanted to meet up after the English class…. Sorry guys.

Zanjan mileometer 21122

25th September Erzurum, Turkey to Marand, Iran

I am writing this entry 3 days after the fact. Thus my recollections are already fading. 3 days when you have ridden 1000 miles is a very, very long time. It is a certain truth that time is relative.

I should say that today, the 27^th has ended well and I hope my account of the 25^th isn’t in any way tinted by my feelings at this time.

I left Erzurum with blues skies overhead. I was anxious, knowing that I was crossing into Iran. Anxious at 2 levels; Firstly, major border crossings like Turkey to Iran are a complicated maze of bureaucracy, where in reality you to some degree must surrender yourself to events, otherwise you will collapse in upon yourself. Secondly, I was entering Iran the unknown.

The landscape heading towards Iran (through an area the Kurds call Kurdistan) is spectacular.  Steep sided gorges, high mountain passes, the highest I crossed was 7500 feet. The road is great biker terrain, sweeping corners, absorbing and distracting.

As I got closer to the border I could sense growing poverty. At one point 3 lads maybe 16 years old tried to stop me. The largest was carrying a big stick. I didn’t stop…. He hurled the stick at me.  He looked stoned on glue. The stick missed by a mile. Minutes later a young boy waved a knife at me.

Nearing the border I passed very close to Mount Ararat. If you look closely you can still see Noak's Ark just below the snowline.

Finally I arrived at the border. Initially your exit is processed by the Turk authorities. 3 stages… Exit passport stamp, Customs clearance, Police check. You are not guided in any way, there is no signage, you are accosted by tenacious, wily money changers who somehow find themselves operating freely in no mans land! In the instance of my crossing the customers officer had done one! This gave me no option but to sit down outside the cabin of the exit stamp police. My unusual and dignified approach caught their attention! A police office called Fatih came up to say hello and asked my name. He asked if I’d like a cup of tea. This offer was in the context of fevered crowds of other travellers… Turks and Iranians milling around. I had tea with 3 young Turks. Lovely guys, all posted to the Iranian border from distant home towns.

Finally I got all the signatures and stamps needed and then moved on to the Iranian entry authorities. Passport and visa check, entry stamp. Fairly painless and hassle free. Next vehicle documentation and Carnet check. A man with no uniform takes your Carnet document and passport and disappears! The carnet is worth £1000’s …. This is nerve racking, I have no idea whether he was an official or a chancer who took 30 Euro’s from me!? My Carnet and passport were returned to me.

As I was waiting for the return of my documents a guy came up to say hello. His name was Peji. He spoke good English. He gave me his phone number and said if I needed any help to call.

I was then in Iran. This is what the UK Government Foreign and Commonwealth office have to say about Iran:

Iran
Still current at: 05 November 2012 Updated: 20 September 2012

No restrictions in this travel advice

Avoid all but essential travel to part(s) of country

Avoid all but essential travel to whole country

Avoid all travel to part(s) of country

Avoid all travel to whole country

This advice has been reviewed and reissued with amendments to the Travel Summary (demonstrations). The overall level of the advice has not changed. We advise against all travel to Iran.

The border formalities had taken 2 or more hours. I felt stunned and without bearings. I decided Iranian Rials might be a good starting point. I changed some money…  I have no idea whether this was official or not. The guy gave me rates in excess of those quoted on Xrates.com.... It later transpired he could have been more generous still. 

I found a petrol station and filled up. In Iran petrol is cheap (CHEAP!) 25p a litre cheap.

I bumped into Peji again. I met his friend and father. They were poultry farmers from Tehran and I would judge successful business men. I followed them out of town and slowly into Iran. After some time they stopped and bought me dinner, a realy delicious dinner. They were returning from Georgia. Peji was 23 years old and had already covered much of the globe. His familiy’s passion was travel (I think this is probably very unusual, because travel is expensive for Iranians) They were very kind to me.

We travelled in convoy and then in the darkness I lost them. Iran at night on dark roads is frightening. I eventually found my way into Marand. I showed a guy the note Peji had written in Persian for me. He gestured for me to follow him in his car. We drove for miles and I became very concerned. I stopped and asked someone else… the reality was we were a very short distance from the hotel, I had nothing to fear. The hotel was basic, but none the less offered a bed and shower.

I locked the door, left the key in the lock and shut out dark thoughts and foreboding.

Oh….. the speeding ticket! It never got paid. I will be persona non grata in Turkey. Next time I enter the country words will be spoken I am sure

Marand Mileometer 20878

24th September Sivas, Turkey to Erzurum Turkey

Weather again very hospitable. Roads great. Very beautifull scenery for the entire day.

I'm sorry officer there must be some sort of mistake?
Look son the Radar doesn't lie!
But your roads are very straight and lovely!
Will sorry help?
What a lovely car you have. I really like your shades! where did you get them?

Its a fair cop.

 

Speeding ticket, 109 Kph, No idea what the limit was, lucky I managed to slow down a little beforehand! 154 Turkish Lire fine (about £50) to be paid at a bank.... ;-)   If i'm lucky I will pass the border without issue!

 

Turkish cops. Good natured enough to be willing to have their photo taken.

I have found a city centre hotel. This ones actully nice... Hotel Esadas.  Again I am parked on the pavement a metre from the main doors.

The hotel is on the main street through Erzurum. A queue of people line up to check out the bike.
Tomorrow I visit Iran. There is a Burger King opposite the hotel. Makes a change from a Doner.

I've had a turkish haircut (yes I can hear howls of hysteria....) lets say head shave. I am ready for another country.

Erzurum mileometer 20560