26th September Marand, Iran to Zanjan, Iran 

I followed a minor road for some time. The scenery in Iran was remarkable. Eventually the minor road entered a motorway. After some time the police stopped me.  Ali, a 21 year old police officer asked a me a few questions.  Iranians speak very little English, but more English than I speak Farsi. After a few questions that were more curiosity then protocol,  Ali offered me tea. He then collected me a cake. Scary Iranian police… NO! I asked to take a photo but the police said this was forbidden, they were cautious about their own circumstances.

Iranian police hospitality

After another hour, another police stop. Same curiosity, gifted 2 pears.

Iranian Motorway lunch

It turns out that the British and Iranians share a passion…. Tea. Iranians drink this all day long. I would judge that tea is more important to them than it is to the British!

I arrived In Zanjan early after covering a humble 230 miles. I was determined to make phone calls and use the internet. I found my way to the finest hotel in Zanjan… Zanjan Grand, yes very grand but sadly full, except for a very expensive suite. The staff directed me to another hotel…. Full.

I finally got a room at Zanjan Jahngardi (Tourist hotel) Better than the night before. The internet worked but didn’t. Google was inoperative! …… no Gmail, no blogger, no Google maps! Whats a traveller to do? I should have guessed but was later told that Iran was blocking Google for 3 days as a sanction against it listing of the American anti Islamic film.

I headed into town to try and find internet access and a sim card. I met a guy called Massoud…….. Massoud spoke little English but was very kind and friendly.

Massoud, 30, ran a Auto windscreen business. He knew everyone in his community and was hyperactive! He helped me in a many many ways. Through Massoud I met scores of people and spent 4 hours moving about Zanjan.

One of the guys I met was Hussein, Hussein told me that he was studying English and asked me to come along to the class that evening. Hussein, 30, spoke a few words of English and worked in a Car Parts business.  I agreed… reluctantly, I say reluctantly because I was tired. At 7.45pm Hussein arrived at the hotel in a brand new Mistsubishi 4x4. He was obviously wealthy… but it wasn’t until this point I understood this. We went to the English class. I taught English (after a fashion) to 2 groups of students for 2-3 hours. An amazing experience. Amongst the students were an Iranian fighter pilot and an MD Doctor with a PhD in PharmoKinetics. We chatted about many things and it was fascinating to speak to Iranians, men and women about life in Iran and in the UK. I was very fortunate to be involved in such a unique situation.

Hussein is a successful racing driver. Yes, really. My return trip to the hotel would have shaded Fernando Alonso’s driving. 

Sleep…… with guilt because Massoud and Hussein had both wanted to meet up after the English class…. Sorry guys.

Zanjan mileometer 21122